Introduction
KOOTENAY LAKE
SLOCAN LAKE
ARROW LAKES
PEND OREILLE CANYON
Kayaking in freshwater may seem dull for the average sea kayaker. The differences are the lack of tides (and thus tide pools), marine life, and the swell of the open ocean. However, big lakes have the same propensity as the ocean to develop significant wind waves. As wind is more likely to funnel down mountain valleys, they can be dangerous places. All the lakes, due to their length, have significant fetch. Many deaths have been recorded on all the lakes in the West Kootenay. Watch for the “black line” indicating the front of sudden weather systems.
Fetch /feCH/ – the distance travelled by wind or waves across open water.
Warning: These are all large lakes lying in narrow mountain valleys. Slocan Lake, at 50 km, is the smallest and Kootenay Lake is 115 km long. Kootenay Lake does not have a significant bend for the entire distance. Kootenay Lake is the most dangerous of all the lakes.
Winds from any direction tend to funnel down the lake valleys. Because of the enormous length of the lakes, the potential fetch is equally large and the size of the wind waves generated can be prodigious.
Virtually any storm during the summer is preceded by a front of fast-moving air. As it funnels down the mountain valleys, that front often shows as the “black line”. Many people have drowned on these lakes during storms.
It is highly recommended to listen to weather forecasts whenever planning on paddling here. It is recommended to paddle in the mornings and be off the water by the early afternoon. If you see the black line, get off the water if able.
Kayaks are inherently more stable than canoes and would likely handle the black line well if done correctly. Hit it at 90° paddling as hard as you can to break through the surf. Then try to keep heading directly into the wind while making your way to the closest landing.
It is relaxing to not deal with tides and the carries are always short, usually less than 5 feet. Contrary to the general visual monotony of many ocean views, the scenery is varied and much more interesting. Rather than impenetrable forest, there is much more to do on the land and this more than makes up for the lack of marine life. Hiking is much more available and can form a significant part of any trip. Campsites are generally better often with nice sandy beaches. Large creeks enter all the lakes and many have wonderful waterfalls usually close to where they enter the lakes. Fog is unknown. The weather is almost always better and marine radios and weather forecasts are usually unnecessary. Instead of marine charts, various topographical maps and Forest/Recreation maps are all that is needed.
The interior of BC is virtually all mountainous terrain. Between the Coast Mountains to the west and the Rockies to the east lie the Columbia Mountains. This range in turn is made up of three significant mountain subranges – from west to east, the Monashees, the Selkirks, and the Purcells, all with gorgeous mountains, many over 9,000 feet and several over 11,000 feet. The West Kootenay lies in the middle of these ranges with the Monashees forming the western border and the Purcells the east.
The areas on either side of the West Kootenay are in significant rain shadows and are thus much drier. The WK contains one of the few interior temperate rainforests in the world. This produces a varied forest with many species of trees and a lovely forest floor with mushrooms, ferns, and mosses. Logging cut blocks seem much less visible. The summer alpine wildflower display must be one of the best natural flower displays in the world.
The WK is home to two large river systems, the Columbia and the Kootenay and the lakes that form in their steep river valleys are large and great places to kayak. Both rivers start in the Rocky Mountain trench between the Purcells and the Rockies.
The Kootenay River flows SE into the US eventually turning north to cross back into Canada south of Creston, BC. It soon flows into Kootenay Lake just north of Creston.
The Columbia River flows NW from its origin passing within a few kilometres of the Kootenay and eventually forms a big horseshoe turning south over the top of the Selkirks at the Big Bend, and then forms the border between the Selkirks and the Monashees. It has three large dams (Mica, Revelstoke, and Hugh Keenleyside) each backing up large lakes. These dams along with the Duncan Dam above the north end of Kootenay Lake play a significant role in flood control and water storage and are part of the Columbia River Treaty with the US. Arrow Lakes behind the lowest dam, the Hugh Kennleyside, is very kayakable. The Columbia River after this lower dam is one of the few free-flowing sections left on the entire river. The Columbia, immediately after crossing the Canada/US border becomes Lake Roosevelt, the 150-mile long lake behind the largest hydroelectric dam in the US, Grande Coulee.
In the middle of the Selkirks is 48 km long Slocan Lake, drained by the Slocan River that enters the Kootenay River halfway between Castlegar and Nelson. It is the real kayaking gem of the three lakes.
The Pend D’Oreille River flows up from the US, crosses into Canada, and enters the Columbia just before it crosses the border into the US. It too has three large dams on its lower part. The best reservoir is in the US behind the Boundary Dam and the resulting gorge is roadless and spectacular.
With 11 hydroelectric dams, the WK is a major source of electric power in British Columbia and the world. The power grid supplying peak power needs to parts of the western US leaves from the WK.
The WK has a wonderful climate. Winters are relatively mild and have heavy snowfall with some of the best powder skiing in the world. The freshet or spring melt starts in May and lake levels reach their highest generally in the first few weeks of July. On Arrow Lakes, almost all beaches disappear and they are much smaller on the other lakes at high water. Summers are usually hot and dry, there is relatively little wind except on Kootenay Lake, and biting insects are uncommon. I would suggest that all the water in the lakes is safe to drink (especially if sourced away from the shorelines). The same goes for most creeks emptying into the lakes away from human habitation. I have drunk it all my life with no problems but to be sure, one may want to purify it.
Probably the best part of the WK is its relative isolation and small population. Usually, there is no one else on the water. Halfway between Calgary and Vancouver, most tourists miss it. Traversed along its south edge by Highway 3, this road goes over the two highest highway passes in Canada on either side. From the north, free ferries on Arrow and Kootenay Lakes provide the only access. The closest large city is Spokane, Washington and three border crossings lie in the WK. With a population of slightly more than 80,000, few people live on the shores of the lakes and each lake has large sections with no road access and thus pristine wilderness. The three largest cities, Nelson, Castlegar, and Trail, each have less than 9,000 people. Nelson must be one of the most attractive small towns in the world. Sitting on the west arm of Kootenay Lake, it has a well-developed alternative lifestyle. This area was one of the main refuges for American draft dodgers, especially during the Vietnam War and they have formed a vibrant part of many communities. Forestry, mining, and cannabis cultivation (illegal) are the main economy. Tourism is relatively poorly developed and it seems that most locals want to keep it that way. Reflecting the generous and trusting nature of WK citizens, hitchhiking is easy throughout the area making shuttles practical.
The most detailed maps are the 1:50,000 series topographical maps but it would be quite expensive to buy all to cover each lake. Less satisfactory are the 1:250,000 series maps – 82E, 82K, 82N, and 82F cover the entire area. Satisfactory and free is the 1:250,000 Arrow and Kootenay Lake Forest Districts Recreation Map produced by the BC Ministry of Forests.