This small group of unusual peaks, also known as the “Fry Pinnacles”, lift their sharp wedges W of the main Purcell watershed. Visible from many points in the S Purcells, the towers are situated along the upper course of Forest\u00a0Creek, some 12 mi E of Kootenay Lake between the heads of Campbell and Dewar Creeks. The S terminal forks of Forest Creek embrace the group, the W branch being known as Pinnacle Creek. There are several small hanging glaciers on the E side of the group. The Leaning Towers are sculptured from medium to coarse-grained, massively joined granite on the eastern border of the Fry<\/sub> Creek batholith. This granite is substantially equivalent to that of the Horsethief Creek stock from which the Bugaboo and Vowell Groups rise and offer similar climbing. The writing desk or scissor-like profile the group presents from a distance is attributable to the master joint sets in the granite-\u00b0both strik\u00ading N, one vertical and the other dipping about 45 to the W.<\/span><\/p>\n The peaks at the S end of the group (The Molars and those S) have more closely spaced jointing than the N peaks of the Leaning Towers. Also included in this section are various iso\u00adlated summits in the same general area.<\/span><\/p>\n ACCESS.<\/strong> Whichever of the approaches described below is ultimately chosen, one must expect to backpack and bushwhack for a minimum of 2 days, gaining and losing consider\u00ad able elevation in the process. The arduous but only direct approach is from Kaslo, crossing Kootenay Lake (1765) by boat and following Campbell Creek. The BC Forest Service maintains a fire road about 5 mi up Campbell Creek (extended and regraded in 1971 and 1972) to a point just below the unburned timber (4100); 5 hr pack from Kootenay Lake. Continue E either on game trails close to the creek or on higher, burned\u00ad slopes to the creek branch which drains Pinnacle Pass (6700) at the E head of the valley. Stay on the N side of this stream until talus slopes are reached, crossing then to the S side. Ascend to pass (beautiful but marshy campsites); 9 hr from the end of the road. Drop down due E about 1000′ to the top of the large talus slide, then angle NE to more slides leading toward the floor of Pinnacle Creek Valley.<\/span> Travel in the Pinnacle Creek valley is tedious and comfort\u00adable campsites hard to find because it is littered with huge boulders and blocks. Customarily, 2 different bases have been used to climb peaks at opposite ends of the group. To reach the S peaks, camps have been placed at the tree line near the stream draining W from below the Wisdom Tooth; 4\u00bd hr from Pinna\u00adcle Pass. To climb the higher N peaks, a camp at approx 8000′ in the NW cirque beneath Hall Peak is advantageous; a half\u00ad day from either Pinnacle Pass or camp at the S end of the group.<\/span><\/p>\n Peaks along the ridges which run perpendicular to the main N-S axis, at the S end of the group, have been climbed from a camp S of that E-W ridge, beside an aquamarine lake in a cirque above headwaters of the St Mary River. Although this spot was reached from the W via Pinnacle Creek, a direct approach from the S up St Mary River bears investigation. Climbs on the E side of the massif have been made from the great E cirque at the head of the SE terminal fork of Fry Creek. The best approach appears to be from the end of the road on Dewar Creek and over the 7200′ pass immediately NW of that stream’s acute bend to the E; about 10 mi of fearsome BC bush.<\/span><\/p>\n Maps:<\/strong> 82F\/15 Kaslo, 82K\/2 Lardeau<\/span><\/p>\n WALL TOWER<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 \u00a02941m\u00a0 \u00a09650′\u00a0<\/span> BLOCK TOWER<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a02941m\u00a0 \u00a09650′<\/span> HALL PEAK (Leaning<\/strong> Tower)<\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a03040m\u00a0 \u00a0<\/em>997,5′\u00a0<\/span> THE PULPIT<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a03002m\u00a0 \u00a09850′<\/span> THE PEW<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a02819m\u00a0 \u00a09250′<\/span> SHARKSHEAD TOWER<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 \u00a0 2911m\u00a0 \u00a09550′ 2-SE Ridge. Jul 1972, G. Kuiken, P. & S. Morrow. Gain high col to S of objective and take ridge to the summit, passing over spectacular S summit (above). One pitch of F7 (CAJ 59-9).<\/p>\n CONSOLATION POINT\u00a0<\/em><\/strong> \u00a02880m\u00a0 9450′ BIVOUAC TOWER<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 \u00a03002m\u00a0 \u00a09850′ WISDOM TOOTH<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 \u00a02972m\u00a0 \u00a09750′ THE MOLARS<\/em><\/strong> 2941m 9650′, 9650, 2880m 9450, 2850m 9350′ EAGLE CREST<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a02850m\u00a0 \u00a09350′ At the S extremity of the Leaning Towers Group, there are numerous minor summits on ridges which extend perpendicu\u00adlar to the main axis of the massif. One such, bearing the main Purcell watershed, runs E from near Wisdom Tooth and sepa\u00adrates the SE terminal fork of Fry Creek from lower branches of Dewar Creek. There are a few peaks in the 9000′ class on this divide. A more important ridge, again constituting the main water\u00ad parting, runs in a SW direction across the S head of Pinnacle Creek. Three peaks almost 9000′ in elevation, and composed of sound granite, rise from this ridge and offer good climbing. FA’s of all three were made by the above-mentioned party, as described below. MT TYRELL<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a02819m\u00a0 \u00a09250′ UNNAMED\u00a0(Neave)\u00a0 \u00a0<\/strong><\/em>2819m\u00a0 \u00a0<\/strong><\/em>9250′ DEVIL’S HORN<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0 \u00a02637m\u00a0 8650′ MT LOKI<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0 \u00a02771m\u00a0 \u00a09090′ This small group of unusual peaks, also known as the “Fry Pinnacles”, lift their sharp wedges W of the main Purcell watershed. Visible from many points in the S Purcells, the towers are situated along the upper course of Forest\u00a0Creek, … Continue reading
\nAnother approach from Kootenay Lake, via Powder Creek, has a distinct advantage over the Campbell Creek route. The road extending N from Riondel along the E shore of the lake goes up Powder Creek a distance of roughly 5 mi, so it is possible to drive to the end of the road. However, this is counterbalanced by the necessity to cross the divide above Powder Creek into the Campbell Creek drainage in order then to cross Pinnacle Pass, the only easy pass to Pinnacle Creek.<\/span><\/p>\n
\nNorthernmost of the group.<\/em><\/span>
\nFrom camp in the NW cirque of the group, ascend snow and\/or talus slopes to the couloir between objective and Block Tower to S, taking it to the col between them (3\u00be hr). Climb friction slabs to reach a minor eminence above the col. Descend slightly and tackle more big slabs which lead to a fairly level stretch of ridge. Work along a narrow, very exposed crest (<\/em>a\u00a0cheval\u00a0<\/em>on\u00a0FA)\u00a0<\/em>which seems to be blocked by a huge granite monolith. Turn it by traversing right and climb a 70′ chimney, one wall of which is the monolith, to the summit (3 hr). Ascent about 7 hr; descent by the same route, 4 hr.<\/span>
\nFA B. Blanchard, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave. S Ridge, 6\/1933<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nOn the main ridge next S of Wall Tower.<\/em><\/span>
\nVia easy W slabs from NW cirque.<\/span>
\nFA P. Morrow, C. Perry, 8\/1973<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nThe highest summit of the group.
\n<\/em>1. From camp in NW cirque, gain upper basin and ascend headwall (sometimes a narrow ribbon of snow to facilitate this) to col (9000) just N of objective (4\u00bd hr). Ascend slabby rock on the ridge to the summit in l\u00bd hr. Good but moderate climbing. As\u00adcent 6 hr; descent by the same route, 3\u00bc hr.<\/span>
\nFA B. Blanchard, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave. N Ridge, 6\/1933
\n<\/em><\/span>2. NW Face.<\/strong> This route could be considered a variant of the above, but it is a more difficult and interesting alternative. Follow Rte 1 to col (1\u00bd hr). Thereafter the route keeps several hundred feet W of the N ridge. For 2 pitches above the col, climb steep friction slabs using layback holds on the wall to the right. The slope eases off for a few hundred feet. The final summit wall (500′) consists of 45\u00b0<\/sup> slabs on which layback technique is repeatedly utilized. Toward the top holds become smaller and less obvious. 1\u00bd hr col to summit. Many variations of detail are possible.<\/span>
\nJ. & P. Crosby, 8\/1955
\n<\/em><\/span>3. E Face.<\/strong> The route begins in the smaller open book right (N) of the prominent S-facing dihedral in the centre of this impressive 1500′ wall. About midway up face, traverse left into the main dihedral, following it to the upper bowl several hundred feet beneath the sum\u00admit. The line then angles diagonally from left to the top. 2\u00bd days; IV F9 A2 <\/span>
\nJ. McComb, J. Myers, A. Twomey, 8\/1975<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nFingerlike S shoulder of Hall Peak.<\/em><\/span>
\nVia easy W slabs (CAJ 59-9)<\/span>
\nFA J. Boyd, B. Ehmann, 8\/1975<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nBump S of the Pulpit; presumably climbed.<\/span><\/p>\n
\nAbove the head of E fork of Pinnacle Creek.
\n<\/em>From the same camp as for other southern peaks, cross to the base of the couloir on the N side of the peak, ascending it to col (3\u00bd hr). N ridge to the summit provides good, varied and easy climbing (\u00be hr). A second summit, about 2′ lower but much more spectacular, consists of a single sheer pyramid of granite 20′ high and is reached by a thin, curving edge of rock (a cheval\u00a0<\/em>on\u00a0FA).
\n<\/em>Ascent 4\u00bc hr; descent 2 hr.
\nFA R. G. Cairns, A. A. McCoubrey, Jr., R. Neave, 6\/1933<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nGentle summit S of Sharkshead.
\n<\/em>Via rotten couloir S of Sharkshead to summit ridge. l\u00bc hr up.
\nFA S. Kragh, C. Wagner, 8\/1972<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nHighest peak at the S end of the group.<\/em>
\nFrom camp below the southern peaks, ascend to the base of a big, snow-filled couloir on the NW side of the objective (2 hr). Climb steep snow and rock above to gain the summit ridge which is followed over slabs and blocks to the top. Ascent 6 hr. Descend by the same route (1 rappel at the top of the couloir on FA) in 3 hr.
\nFA R. G. Cairns, A. A. McCoubrey, R. Neave, 6\/1933<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nNext S of Bivouac Tower.
\n1. N Ridge.<\/strong> FA Jul 1972, Bergenske, S. McElroy. Route unknown but likely by steep couloir between objective and Bivouac Tower, the line taken by the 1933 party on their attempt. From col at the head of the couloir via N ridge.
\n2. SE Face.<\/strong> Gain col im\u00ad mediately S of peak by rotten couloir (2\u00bc hr from camp). 6 pitches on steep but broken granite lead to the base of the final summit ridge. To avoid 10′ overhanging jam crack, traverse right onto E face. A delicate exposed F4 pitch leads to easy summit rocks (l\u00bd hr from col). One rappel on the descent.
\nS. Kragh, C. Wagner, 8\/1972<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nA group of pinnacles between Wisdom Tooth and Eagle Crest.<\/em>
\nA pleasant traverse in either direction, with difficulties rarely exceeding a scramble (CAJ 56-76; 59-9).
\nFA J. Bergenske, S. McElroy.Eagle Crest, 7\/1972<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\nAt the S end of the main axis of the group<\/em>
\nFrom camp for southern peaks, angle up S across snow and\/or talus slopes to the base of the wide shallow couloir on the SW side. Ascend couloir part way and then take to broken rocks, easy scrambling along the ridge leading to the top. As\u00adcent, 5 hr; descent 3 hr.
\nFA B. Blanchard, R. G. Cairns, A. A. & A. A. Jr. McCoubrey, R. Neave, 6\/1933<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n
\n1\u00bd mi farther S, another E ridge, comprising several 8000′ peaks, separates the headwaters of St Mary River and tributaries of Dewar Creek. The rock of both ridges is mainly gneiss and schist.
\nAscents (all rated I, F3) of six peaks on these ridges were made in Jul 1975 by A. J. Kearney, C. Sink from camp by lake S of the main axis (see intro).<\/p>\n
\nPeak 8650\u00a0<\/strong>At the head of the SE terminal fork of Pinnacle Creek. Via NE ridge; II F7.
\nPeak 8950\u00a0<\/strong>\u00bc mi W of the above. Via E face to the crest of NE ridge, passing left of a huge gendarme to regain crest beyond; II F9.
\nPeak 8950<\/strong> At the head of SW terminal fork of Pinnacle Creek. Mountain’s NW ridge separates the latter from the S terminal fork of Campbell Creek. Approach from Pinnacle Creek and ascend snow on the NW side to gain W ridge. A short rappel from the false summit and one more pitch to the top; II F5.<\/p>\n
\nIsolated summit 5\u00bd mi E of Kootenay Lake in SW angle between Fry and Gillis Creeks; glaciers on E slope.<\/p>\n
\nOn Campbell-Gillis Creek divide. Closely jointed granite of Fry Creek batholith, locally loose.<\/em><\/p>\n
\nThe minor peak at the head of Powder Creek, popular as a practice crag.<\/p>\n
\n5 mi E of Kootenay Lake on the divide separating Bernard and Loki Creeks.
\n1. Follow the undulating W ridge from the mouth of Loki Creek to the summit; 8 hr up.
\nFRA J. & P. Crosby, 8\/1955
\n<\/em><\/span>2. NE Ridge<\/strong>. Approach via road on Bernard Creek which extends approx 7 mi E from Kootenay Lake. Ascend avalanche chutes some 2500′ vertically to the ridge which is followed to the summit. As\u00adcent 7 hr
\nK. Langhalle, D. Parfitt, M. Stein, 8\/1971<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"