PEAKS MT ST MARY’S

RADIANT PEAK  2789m   9150′
A symmetrical snow peak between heads of W and SW ter­minal forks of Findlay Creek and W terminal fork of Dewar Creek.

MT ST MARY   2911m   9550′
12 mi SE of Mt Findlay above S terminal forks (lakes in both) of Findlay Creek, of which snowfield on N side is the source.
From camp on Findlay Creek 3 mi N of objective, go up the SE terminal fork, angling up through alplands and across polished slabs to reach the large N snowfield. Cross to N ridge and follow it over snow and short cliffs to the summit. Ascent 7 hr.
FA E. Cromwell, J. M. Thorington, E. Feuz, Jr, 7/1931

NOWITKA MT   2911m   9550′
1½ mi SW of Mt St Mary; lakes in E cirque between it and Mt St Mary form the source of White Creek, a main NE tributary to St Mary River.

TOTEM PEAK    2819m   9250′
4½ mi S of Mt St Mary; at SW head of E-facing cirque with several lakes, next S of E cirque mentioned under Nowitka Mt; approached from White Creek.
Route follows the main dihedral in the centre of 900′ vertical granite wall. Much nailing, often marginal in thin bottoming cracks. About 30 pi­ tons plus assorted chocks; F8, A3. 3½ days on FA, but can be done faster.
FA Myers, A. Twomey, E Face, 10/1974