EYEBROW PEAK 3353m 11001′
The major peak at N head of Starbird Glacier, the apex of several radiating glaciers. It is probably the easiest 11,000-foot peak in the Interior Ranges.
1. From camp near the head of Horsethief Creek, follow Starbird Glacier for almost 3½ mi, keeping to its N side and/or using its N lateral moraine, to gain the upper neve at the S base of the mountain (4 hr). Circle N and W, crossing the saddle between the objective and Birthday Peak (which see) into the basin NW of the peak. Then ascend over snow and shale on an easterly course above SW face to the summit. Ascent 9 hr.
FA D. Brown, E.W. Harnden, L. Nettleton, E. Parson. 1914
The following three routes were ascended in July 1928 by ACC parties (led as indicated) from ”Thunder Camp” at the junction of Horsethief Creek and the outlet stream from Lake of the Hanging Glaciers. Approach as in Route 1 to S base of peak in 4 hr,
2. W Face. Ascend snow couloir in face; 5½ hr. C. G. Wates
3. SW Face. Good climbing on rock; 4 hr. H. P. Thomson
4. S Ridge Eventually forced to E face; 4½ hr. H, Ulrichs
Approach & ascent: Most KMC trips take the following approach and route: Drive up the north fork of Glacier Creek. A logging road new in 1996 goes up the NE fork of Glacier Creek to the 6000-foot level. To access Starbird Pass (8000′): go straight up the creek, the slide alder is not too bad and go around the headwall of Mt Monica on a goat trail to get to Starbird Pass. A good campsite is 150′ above the pass at 8700′. Walk 3 km across the Starbird neve and climb a 1000′ couloir in the SW face and an easy scramble up the summit ridge.
Descent: A much faster route (and what should be considered a good ascent route) is to go SW to the 9100′ low spot in the ridge that forms the west extremity of the neve 204-894. A quick 2500′ descent leads to the northern tributary of Glacier Creek and then a short bushwhack down the bottom of the creek to your vehicle.
A 1983 trip approached from Howser Creek/Tea Creek – park 5000′. Camped at 7600′. Climbed Eyebrow via NW ridge.
BIRTHDAY PEAK 3124m 10520′
One mi NW of Eyebrow Peak on main divide.
Approach as for Route 1 on Eyebrow Peak, ascending objective by S snow slopes.
FA A.H. & E. L. MacCarthy, C. Kain, 8/1915
UNNAMED 3002m 9850′ (MT GANSNER)
3 mi SW of Eyebrow Peak across Starbird Glacier.
Via SW slopes and W ridge in 2 hr from 8600′ on S ridge (reached on high-level traverse from Starbird Pass to Macbeth Group.
FA A. Maki, R. C. West, 8/1960