EGYPTIAN PEAKS

A group of serrated peaks in the 9000′ class along the ridge extending N from Jumbo Pass to the S margin of the S branch of Star­bird Neve; between Jumbo Creek and terminal forks of Glacier Creek. Firm, high-angled granite on E side; exceedingly steep quartzite on W. Approach from old logging camp (5500) at end of Jumbo Creek road. Enjoyable climbs of moderate difficulty.
FA of all routes described (S to N) below: J. Jeglum, C. Wagner, 7/1973

MT ISIS    2819m   9250′
Directly W of Mt Karnak across Jumbo Creek
Ascend over small E glacier and up face to notch (8500) in S ridge about ½ mi S of the summit. Shortly beyond notch, drop 100′ down the couloir on E to avoid a vertical step, returning to the ridge by a chimney out of the couloir. Continue along the jagged crest (F3 & 4) to the top. 2 hr from the notch; 6 hr from camp.

MT STORUS   2789m   9150′
½ mi N of Mt Isis.
From Mt Isis via intervening ridge in 1½ hr. Final 100′ step bypassed by descending couloir and traversing onto E face where three exposed pitches (F3) lead to the summit. Descend E face to E glacier and camp in 4½ hr.

MT AMEN-RA   2911m   9550′
Highest and most spectacular of Egyptian Peaks.
From Jumbo Creek, ascend to glacier lying E of objective and peaks to N. Climb diagonally up to the col (8900) N of peak (6 hr), then ascend good rock of N ridge (F2 & 3), reaching the top in 1 hr more.

MT ATMU   2819m   9250′ 
Immediately N of Mt Amen-Ra.
Traverse from Mt Amen-Ra in 1 hr.

MT OSIRIS   2880   9450′
Nmost of Egyptian Peaks; on S margin of Starbird Neve.