MOUNT HATTERAS

 MOUNT HATTERAS (WEDGE)   2963m   9721′
Mount Hatteras is a striking wedge-shaped summit of rock and snow, a little west of the watershed. Its rock is somewhat loose.

1. East Ridge. From a camp in the forest 0.8 km from the glacier, ascend Hatteras Glacier to the col east of the mountain (3 hours). Climb an easy rock rib, and then a very steep snow slope (in a year of heavy snow; probably more difficult when snow is absent). Go left to avoid a cornice overhanging the top of the ridge, and scramble to summit. Time, 5 hours from the col; descent 1 hour. Ice, Glacier (II,4,s). 12/7/1954.

2. West. East to west, and west to east traverses, both over Squab Peak. The rock of the west ridge is loose and has slippery lichen; easy Class 4. (II,4,s).
Large HMC party, 13/8/1959.

3. North Ridge. From a camp near the tongue of Hatteras Glacier, gain the upper glacial basin below Mount Hatteras and the level section of the north ridge. Follow the ridge mostly on snow, and bypass several rock pinnacles. The final steep, exposed ridge above the bergschrund offers mixed snow and rock problems with two pitches of Class 5.2 rock. Ascent, 7 hours. Ice, Glacier (III,5.2,s). July 1075.