THE KEYHOLE

KEYHOLE 2652m (8700′)
Accessed from the high point of the Gibson Lake trail, climb straight up to this tiny cleft in the Kokanee ridge line. The edge of Kokanee Glacier is immediately in your face and the high summits are close at hand.
This was my friend Leon Arishenkoff’s favourite hike. It was a yearly ritual to do the climb on July 1, Canada Day, with all our friends – Mark, Doug, Eric, Lois and whoever we could drag along. This was never an up-and-down trip – we always boot-skiied down the glacier to the cabin and home. For safety, it is best to stay on the right side where there may be fewer crevasses.  

Rating: ♦♦♦♦♦
Difficulty: Challenging D3
Elevation gain: 1116m (3662′)
Key elevations: Gibson Lake Parking lot and TH. 1536m (5040′); Keyhole trailhead 1982m (6500′);Keyhole 2652m (8700′); Esmeralda Peak 2790m (9154′); Battleship 2610m(8563′); Kokanee Lake 1975m (6480′)
Distance: 11km round trip
Time: 6-7 hours
Season: early July through mid-October
Access: easy 
Map: 82F/11 Kokanee Creek

Trail/Route: Follow the directions from Gibson Lake to Kokanee Glacier. 
3.3km 1 hour – A signpost states it is 1.2km farther to Kokanee Lake. Just beyond, look up to the right to see the route you will be taking. 150m further, at 1982m (6500′), the unsigned Keyhole trail forks right and ascends north. 
A trail exists for possibly half the way. Initially, it traverses to the north and then switches back to the SE. After an hour reach an old mine with a few timbers and tailings and the “trail” ends. We rarely took the trail very far, but always turned up the first small creek. It is much faster. The keyhole is visible and the route obvious – straight up. The final pitch is steep through big boulders.
A cairn and Kokanee Glacier are immediately in front of you. The summits along the ridge line are very close. Both knowledge level and equipment will determine how far you go. Venturing onto the glacier requires a rope and crevasse rescue skills. Most will return the way they came. 

What to do? 
1. Climb Esmeralda. Immediately to the south of the Keyhole, it is 10m less than Cond, the high point in the Kokanee Glacier ridge line. 
2. Turn left (northwest) and follow the ridge line to the green repeater on the high point of the ridge line. The views down to Kokanee Lake 2500 feet below, are dramatic. If descending the glacier to the core area of the park, this is the start of the way down. 
3. Descend the glacier to the Giant’s Kneecap and Battleship, Slocan Chief cabin and the trail back to Gibson Lake. Don’t descend directly down from the Keyhole to the NE 
4. Walk the Kokanee Glacier ridge line southeast, climbing as many of the peaks on the ridge line as desired: Esmeralda, Cond, Kokanee and even Grays Peak and descend south of Kokanee Peak directly to Gibson Lake.