SPILLIMACHEEN GROUP PEAKS

CARIBOU PEAK 2610m   8563′
Caribou Peak is 9km NNW of Silent Mountain, between Spillimacheen and Beaver Rivers.

UNNAMED 2610m  8563′
Located 4.5 kilometres NNW of Silent Mountain.
1. Southwest Ridge. The FA group climbed the southwest ridge from the connecting ridge to Silent Mountain. They gained the ridge from northwest of Silent Mountain. (II,3). DE, PF, July

UNNAMED 2700m   8858′
Located 5.6 kilometres NNE of Silent Mountain.
1. South Ridge. Ascend by the south ridge from the connecting ridge to Silent Mountain. The FA party gained the ridge from northeast of Silent Mountain and both summits were climbed. (II,3).
RG, JW, 7/1959.

SILENT MOUNTAIN 2670m   8760′
East of Beaver-Duncan pass and north-northwest of Silent Pass.
1. South Slopes. Simpson climbed from Silent Pass over grassy ledges of the south face. (I,3). David H. Simpson, 1947. (AAJ 9:47)
2. West to South The traverse is a three hour rock scramble with a little exposure in places. Descent was by the south face. (II,3).
Beverley Bendell, Bob Farrell, Dick Jull, Bob Scott, Rick Welton, 20/7/1986. 
3. South Ridge. From Silent Pass, hike northwest to gain the long ridge descending south from the middle bump on Silent Mountain’s west ridge. Scramble the south ridge, over the bump, and continue along the main An interesting pinnacle along the way can be bypassed on the south, or ascended via the west face. Three hours up. (II,3). Charles Duerig, Chris Ritcey, Paul Werbaneth, Greg Zaffaroni with Arnor Larson, September 6, 1987. (PC: AL)

BYRON PEAK (AMYOT SURVEY STATION)   2698m   8852′
Situated 3.2 km east-northeast of Spillimacheen Mountain and 23 km west of Parson; peak 10 on the Robinson-West map on the east end of the group. map 82N/2 McMurdo Coordinates 024-578, 
1. FA by Wm. S. Drewry, Topographical Survey party, 1891, route un- known. See Route 2. Surveyed at 2698
2. North Slopes. Ascend by the rock slide on the north side of the mountain. Percy A. Carson, Topographical Survey party, late July 1906. (ARTS 1906-1907:85; ARTS 1907-1908:77, use both refs.; TR; IRBC 1963 names)

Three peaks of about 2640m lie between Spillimacheen Mountain and Byron Peak.

SPILLIMACHEEN MOUNTAIN 2880m   9449′
This prominent summit is 3 km east-southeast of Corner Peak and 3 km west of Byron Peak. Peak 9 of the Robinson-West map.
Note: This name is also locally applied to the low mountain in view from the village of Spillimacheen, just north of the junction of Spillimacheen River with the Columbia River.)
FRA 1907; surveyed at 9449 feet and climbed by the Survey. Route unknown.

 

CORNER PEAK 2970m   9744′
Three km west-northwest of Spillimacheen Mountain. 

UNNAMED 2790m   9154′
Unnamed 2790m is a dry rocky summit on the ridge between Beverly and Corner Peaks. Peak 7 of the Robinson-West map.
1. West Ridge. Proceed east along the ridge from Beverly Peak. A steep pitch on the west ridge near the summit requires the rope. It is 10 hour round trip from a treeline camp in the basin at the head of McMurdo Creek. (III,4). PF, JW, July 1959.

BEVERLY PEAK 2760m   9055′
Located 2.5 km east-southeast of the cabin at the headwaters of McMurdo Creek.
1. Southwest Face. The summit, via the southwest face, is 4 hours from near the cabin above the south fork of McMurdo Creek. (II,3).
JH, RW, August 18, 1953.
2. East Ridge. The east ridge was descended by Peter Fox and John O. Wheeler (GSC), July 1959. See Route 1, Unnamed

DAVID PEAK (DAVID’S FOLLY)   2820m   9252′
Situated 3 km south of the cabin at the head of the south fork of McMurdo Creek.
1. East Ridge. Climb up the steep snow of the east ridge. Glacier (II, 4,s).
Carl Johnson, David H. Simpson, 1946. 
2. West From a camp near the McMurdo Creek cabin, ascend the glacier to the col between Cony and David, and climb the rock of the west ridge. The only difficulty is steep quartzite cliffs in the last 60 meters of the ascent. Time, 4 hours up. Glacier (II,5.0,s). 12/8/1953.
The Cony-David col may be reached from the south side from International Basin (Carbonate Group) via the snowfields above the head of Bennison Creek. (the Carbonate Group access route)

CONY PEAK   2850m   9350′
Cony Peak is 3.3 km SSW of the McMurdo Creek cabin, west of David Peak.
1. North Glacier, East Ridge. From Silent Pass, contour around the west side of the north ridge of Twin Towers and cross at the low point of the ridge to the glacier north of Cony (Spillimacheen Glacier). Ascend between two small hanging glaciers and circle east to the east It is 3.5 hours to the top from Silent Pass. Glacier (II,4,s). 17/7/1947. Simpson made the second ascent a few days later.
2. East to West The party ascended the snow of the east ridge, and descended rock of the west ridge, continuing to Twin Towers. Ascent from a camp near the cabin, 5 hours. Glacier (II,4,s). August 12, 1953. 
3. North Ridge. Ascend the north ridge directly from the cabin. No details available. Glacier (II,4,s). 7/1959. 

TWIN TOWERS PEAK 2850m   9350′
A double summit 0.5 kilometer west of Cony Peak.
1. East Ridge. The east ridge was ascended after traversing over Cony Peak; one hour from Cony Peak. The descent was by a rock buttress leading to the glacier, and down the glacier to camp near the cabin above the south fork of McMurdo Creek. Total time, 10 hours. Glacier (III,4,s). 12/8/1953.
2. North Buttress. See Route 1.

UNNAMED 2700m   8850′
At the northwest head of International Basin,
Map 82K/14 Westfall River.
FRA by the prospector James Brady, June 1, 1901, who found the “Alpha” mineral claim on the summit, route unknown. He, as agent, claimed it for a mining company, probably the Beaver Canyon Mining Company, Ltd. (the owner in 1905). 

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I would like to think of myself as a full time traveler. I have been retired since 2006 and in that time have traveled every winter for four to seven months. The months that I am “home”, are often also spent on the road, hiking or kayaking.
I hope to present a website that describes my travel along with my hiking and sea kayaking experiences.

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