PIROUETTE PINNACLES 2730m 8957′
A group of pinnacles, some granitic and some metamorphic, 1.3 km north-northwest of Sugarplum Spire. Pinnacle #3 is the highest.
The order of presentation of these pinnacles is in numerical order, which order is south to north, rather than the usual north to south. The Arabesque Pinnacles are also south to north.
PINNACLE #1 2640m 8661′ Coordinates 909-367.
1. Southwest Ridge. The camp overlooked an unnamed lake on the west side of Sugarplum Spire. From the Pirouette-Sugarplum col (also gained as in Route 1, Sugarplum Spire; 2 hours) follow the firm granite of the southwest ridge to the top, about 1.5 hours. It is a pleasant rock scramble amidst magnificent (I,3).
Connie and Thomas Crowley, Reg Fryling, 1971.
2. East Face. Scramble up the east face (diagonalling right) and climb two short Class 5.1 pitches to the top. July
PINNACLE #2 2640m 8661′ Coordinates 909-368.
1. West. From pinnacle #1, rappel to a sharp notch between #1 and #2. Traverse onto the west face and climb a 45 meter wall (Class 5.5) to regain the crest, and follow it to the top. July 1975.
2. North Ridge. Gain the north ridge from snow slopes. It is a Class 3-4 scramble on very good granite, with the rope used on descent for one short pitch near the top.
It was descended in 1975.
PINNACLE #3 2730m 8957′ Coordinates 909-371.
1. South Ridge. Continue along the easy south ridge, and over an intermediate bump, over the highest point (#3) and through #7, three hours from the col. (Pinnacles #6 and #7 are scrambles.
The positions of #4 – #7 are not too obvious when one is there. The first two and last pinnacles are granitic, and the rest are metamorphic.
Descend the glacier and go around to camp near the tongue of Hatteras Glacier in 2 hours. Glacier (III,5.5,A0,s). July 1975.
The above is Class 5.5 only if the west face route on pinnacle #2 is used. It rates a III if all the pinnacles are done.