SQUAB PEAK 2730m 8957′
Located between Sugarplum Spire and Mount Hatteras.
1. Southeast Ridge. There is no need to go to the col with Mt. Hatteras. It is much better to cut up to the col (to NW) nearer to the summit and avoid the intermediate small summit. See Mount Hatteras, Route 2. Class 3
2. North Glacier, Northwest Ridge. Descended and ascended in 1959. See Route 1 and Mount Hatteras, Route 2. Class 4. The glacier is the approach to Sugarplum Spire, Route 2, to the Squab-Sugarplum col.
The northwest ridge now (2010) possesses a deep notch in the rock ridge necessitating some careful Class 4 rock climbing. (rope, it probably was a snow col years ago.
3. Northeast Face. Ascend the north glacier from camp in the forest below Hatteras Climb east on rock to the summit (25 meters of Class 5 climbing). This route is useful when the slopes to the northwest ridge melt away to ice. Glacier (II,5.2,s).
LS, FT, 12/7/1994.