Few people come to Hawaii to hike. It is not encouraged (no one makes much money off hikers) but has been for me, the best part of coming to Hawaii, one of the spectacular areas of the world. These are a very limited list of what I have done. There are many more hikes available.
KAUAI
Kalalau Valley, Kauai.
Drive on #36, 37 miles from Lihue. Break ins are all too common at the trail head. The Na Pali with its 4000’ cliffs rising out of the ocean must be one of the worlds most beautiful places. It is 10.8 miles to the end of the beach, and unfortunately many access it by helicopter. Clothing is optional and most go nude; you would have to be pretty straight or different if you were clothed. At 4.6 miles is a 1 ½ mile trail to Hanakapiai Falls that falls 300’ into the back of a natural amphitheater. The trail is quite easy but there are some climbs and one walks high above the ocean. At 6 ½ miles is a ¼ mile trail to Hanakoa Falls. For the last 4.8 miles, the trail switchbacks up and down a precipitous cliff with extraordinary views. Kalalau is large, broad valley 2 miles wide and 3 miles long and the trail drops steeply down. Campsites are varied but the best may be next to the stream or caves at the far end of the beach. The falls at the end of the beach are the best bet for safe water and a great shower. There were no reliable trails into the valley and the best bet follows the stream on the left side. The valley was once the site of a leper colony.
MAUI
Haleakala and Kaupo Gap to Kaupo Ranch
The drive to Haleakala are well sign posted and takes Hwy 378 to the summit. Heavily eroded by centuries of rain, the crater has caused the mountain to shrink 2,000’ to its present 10,023’ and it is dormant. It rates as the world’s largest dormant volcano, covering an area of 33 square miles, 7 miles long, 2 miles wide and 21 miles in circumference. There are some 30 miles of trails. One of the Maui must-do is to drive to the top and try to catch sunrise through the routine clouds. I decided to hike through the crater and down to the ocean through the Kaupo Gap. Follow the Sliding Sands Trail that begins above the visitor center on the south side of Pakaoao Hill at 9,745’, down 1,400 feet and 3.9 miles down to the floor of the crater. At the first trail junction, keep right heading toward the Kapalaoa Cabin at 7,270’. Go left here to pass the Bubble Cave and Bottomless Pit. The 3.5 mile trail to the Paliku Cabin crosses rough aa lava often covered with a whitish lichen. The lava changes to a smooth type of lava and it usually starts to rain or one walks through mist at this point. The cabin area gets 300’’ of rain a year and the cabin is surrounded by a lush garden of native and introduced plants making an enchanting, if wet, spot. The best attractions are silversword, feral goats and the nene, the Hawaii state bird.
The trail exits the crater here through the Kaupo Gap and one descends a steep 6,000 feet in eight miles, a real quad buster. Half way the trail becomes a jeep road, ending at the Kaupo Ranch. My wife had driven around to Hana and I was on my own to get there (I was not sure how but was expecting to walk along the south shore). As luck would have it, the postman had keys to all the gates on that road and gave me a ride!. I doubt you will ever meet anyone who has ever been on it.
Waimoku Falls
The Hana Highway and Seven Sacred Pools are two of the most popular tourist attractions on the island. After crossing the outlet stream of the pools, hike up the jeep road 100 yards past the bridge. The road ascends along four of the seven pools with spectacular views down into the pools. The seventh pool is in a deep gorge below a 50 foot waterfall. Cross the stream above the falls to see petroglyphs on the canyon wall. Return to the jeep road and turn onto the trail that goes into the woods. There are many stream crossings and pools to swim in. Eventually Waimoku Falls are reached for another swim.
Charles Lindberg’s Grave
This is not a hike but a drive. I am including it here as few people find it. The setting is one of the most serene spots on any of the islands. Lindbergh lived his last days on the lush Hana coast. He died on August 26, 1974, the day my first child was born.
On Maui, take the lovely road to Hana with its 116 bridges. Drive 8 miles south of the “village” and continue past Seven Sacred Pools. Just before the end of the pavement (where it ended when I was last there in 1982 – the pavement could have been extended since then), take a small, unmarked gravel road to the left just past mile marker #41. It ends at the lovely Palopalo Ho’omau Church on the ocean. The limestone coral church was built in 1857. His grave is in the churchyard under a Java plum tree. Before he died, he sketched a simple design for his grave and his coffin.
His epitaph on a simple stone which quotes Psalms 139:9, reads:
“Charles A. Lindbergh”
Born Michigan 1902
Died Maui 1974
…if I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea…C.A.L.
HAWAII
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Mauna Loa (13,680’)
This, the most active volcano in the world, is also the highest mountain in the world when measured from its base, the sea floor. Mona Kea is actually slightly higher but you can drive to the top of it. Altitude sickness and hypothermia are significant risks so carry lots of warm clothing. The cabins at Red Hill and the summit have blankets, white gas stoves and lanterns but not white gas. The water is collected from the roof and should be treated. Total trail length is 18.2 miles.
One should allow 2 days for the ascent: one day to hike to Red Hill (7miles, 3,374’ elevation gain) and another day to the summit (11 miles, 3,645’ elevation gain).
The trailhead (6,662’) is at the end of the Mona Loa Strip Road, some 13.5 miles from the Kilauea Visitor Center. Nene can sometimes be seen on the trail. Vegetation is soon lost and one follows lava rock cairns. The Red Hill cabin is a welcome sight and offers panoramic views of the island. Start early on the second day to avoid the heat. About 2 miles from the summit, you arrive at the North Pit of the great Mokuaweoweo caldera. It is an oval depression 3 miles long, 1 ½ miles wide and up to 600’ deep. The trail drops into the caldera and the cabin is a short hike up to the rim.
To reach the summit, return to the junction on the north side of the caldera and follow the rock cairns to the summit.
The return trip is easy but tiring in one day.
Kilauea Caldera Area
Like Mauna Loa, Kilauea is a shield volcano with a characteristic broad, gently sloping dome. While the summit is 4,000’ above sea level, the base extends another 16,000’ to the ocean floor. The summit caldera, 2½ miles long and 2 miles wide, contains Halemaumau, had an almost continuously active lake of liquid lava through the 19th century and the first quarter of the 20th. A recommended hike is to take the Halemaumau Trail across the caldera to the ‘fire pit’→Byron Ledge Trail→Kilauea Iki trail which ends at the Thurston Lava Tube→Crater Rim Trail→Visitor Center for a 10 mile day. Obtain the park brochure with a map of the area and decide where to go.
Kau Desert Area. This hot, dry relatively barren area is in the southern part of the park.
Kalapana Area. Beginning in 1969 and continuing today, a series of eruptions cover the road. Trails here are short and relatively easy. The Puu Loa Petroglyphs has hundreds of petroglyphs on mounds.
Akaka Falls
This .7 mile loop trail goes to the 420 foot high falls through a tropical paradise.
Captain Cook Monument
A 2.5 mile trail leads from a difficult to find trailhead. Opposite a dry cleaners just out of the town of Captain Cook is the road to Kealakekua Bay that drops abruptly to the left. The trail itself begins about 500’ down the road. The overgrown trail leads to the beach and the monument. Beyond the monument are several caves some containing human bones. The original plaque commemorating Cooks death is under a foot of water where the jeep road ends. Cook was killed in 1779 while attempting to end a fight between his men and the Hawaiians